Best Double Length Sling Anchor For Climbing Reddit Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts, My worry with this is that the top lockers will be bending against the rock but that seems unavoidable on far back hangers anyway, Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots, By putting the knot 1/3 of the length out you should have plenty of headroom to clearly weight your rappel before disconnecting from the anchors, Figure eights a little easier to untie than two oberhands, too, Slinging rocks with slings or the rope itself is a great way to save on gear placement, as is building anchors with the rope, You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this, Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop, Really depends on the scenario, This is for sport, of course (2 generally level-ish chains), I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block, If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit, , I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor, Long enough for most gear anchors used single or v-clove style, Mar 13, 2024 · Bring at least six single-length slings total, and up to twice that for complex terrain with lengthy pitches, or on long routes if an unplanned retreat seems possible, I can use a double length sling for any number of things on a multipitch while a cordallete is generally going to be used almost exclusively for anchoring so using a cord seems like good conservation of pro to me, 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m, A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts, Accommodates weirdly spaced bolts, Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge, Now sling length is another aspect to consider, Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here, He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands), A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree, 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings, I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough, For example I don't usually bring enough double length slings that I want to use two of them up at a bolt anchor, An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope, 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches, What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor, Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners, Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money, Multipitch I always clove hitch the rope, The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo, Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now, This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done, The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it, Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera, It's much harder to escape the belay, And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc, Then it's as simple as using that to extend my atc and backing up with an autoblock, If your second falls, they fall on you and not the anchor, First off, I have a few styles of TR anchor that I use like: steel carabiners on the end of each chain (fast, convenient), or a sliding x with limiting knots (good equalization), or maybe a double length sling with figure 8 at the bottom,
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