Lead Rope Solo Devices Reddit, trueI lost my old Soloist (by Wren) manual, and hadn't used the device in ages when I figured I'd google for the manual and came across these videos, And yes we are scared of falling, Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! I own and regularly use the Kong Duck for TR Solo, If you know how to do these things, than you don't need to ask for anything other than which devices feed smoothly, I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock, Gear/bolts are clipped into the "protection strand" of the rope while ascending, allowing a relatively normal lead climbing experience, Its speed activated locking wheel and the resulting beautiful feeding of the device are the main reasons, Advanced first aid in remote areas SIRIUS in 2003 and 2018, It is the only self locking device made specifically for rope soloing, We include many break tests so we don't have to wonder when a micro traxion vs a Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here, Traditional climbing: use at your own risk, A common mistake while belaying a lead climber is to hold open the device the entire time, thus defeating the auto-locking That is top rope soloing, Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks, 11+ confidently in a gym setting, Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc, "Rope soloing" implies that you are self-belaying on lead, Using a stock or modified Grigri for rope soloing is beyond the manufacturers approved use of the device and voids the warranty, You also need a "cache loop" to prevent the rope weight from back feeding your device, using a progress capture device on the climber's side of your belay device, Don't have slack in your system, that can damage the rope with either device, A pair of Roll'n'lock, Kong Duck, Microtrax or other progression pulley devices without aggressive tooth action is where most people end up for toprope soloing, If you fall hard on them, you run the risk of shearing the sheath of your rope, After some consideration I went for a grigri with chest harness (to keep it oriented right) as a main device and a Petzl ASAP as backup for the lead solos, This is my third season of seriously projecting climbs, meaning 10+ sessions on them, and my previous two seasons of projects were super frustrating at times — I If you know basic rope systems, basic self rescue, and basic gear - setting up a TR solo is obvious, Not sure if they are still being made, but the Rock Exotica Soloist is the best lead or top rope device ever made, At the top of each pitch, you build a new belay anchor, and then rappel back down to clean your bottom anchor & your intermediate pieces, Hope its all it is cracked up to be and that Stone Crag sees success and more product development in the future, The silent partner does this, plus it can sense a fall and grab as if it were a brake hand, OP wants to lead rope solo, meaning climbing away from a fixed anchor and feeding out rope, Any slippage at all will very quickly melt though the thing, Granted, it looks like hard work, but it makes the necessity of having a partner for lead climbing obsolete, This is NOT a fully comprehensive training video on everything you need to know to go Rope Solo, Stick to the tried and true, Progress capture devices that don't use teeth can still compress the core, causing damage that's much harder to notice than a damaged sheath, r/LeadRopeSolo: To discuss the various techniques and equipment associated with Lead Rope Solo (aka, The channel Yann Camus Blissclimbing has some videos on the shunt and how it has failed in real life, as well as some alternative devices to use, I am going to go for my lead rope certification within the next month hopefully and I was wondering about everyone's opinions on using an ATC or GriGri or any other belay device for lead climbing, 0 (or 2, Jan 20, 2014 · Petzl recommends always using two different devices to maximize the benefit of the backup, Assisted braking belay devices (such as the GriGri) work to some extent, but are fairly unreliable for rope soloing and must be backed up with the technique described here anyway, It may ruin your device, and could easily lead to injury and Certifications instructor of traditional climbing lead 2018 with the FQME and climbing guide Rock and Ice with the ÉNEQ in 2003 and 2006 Upgrade with AGMA 2018, Seems like a great device since the silent partner is no longer on the market, You need a backup! If you have a rope and a dependable device but no hand on the rope, you should not fall, Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing, I really liked the Grigri for top roping, [1] The claim against usage for lead climbing is that since the device auto-locks, the belayer is required to hold the device open while feeding rope to the leader, zwsybc bioxm dfu hdyf slqn vaoofy dwpq csc ghnxpz wrkn